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hobbies:rc:rustler [2009/03/04 12:38]
127.0.0.1 external edit 		hobbies:rc:rustler [2010/05/25 11:05] (current)
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 +====== Rustler Offroad 2WD racetruck ======
 +
 +The Traxxas Rustler is classed as a 1/10 scale 2WD electric stadium truck/truggy. It is directly related to the 
 +Bandit (1/10 2WD electric buggy), Stampede (Truck) and Slash (1/10 2WD SCORE), with these cars sharing many components
 +and features. The truck is mainly built using delrin and composite nylon parts. There is not a single E-clip to be
 +found on the truck, hex-bolts are originally used throughout in good Traxxas style.
 +
 +The Rustler I am running is the TRA3708 Rustler VXL, a brushless setup with Traxxas' own Velineon 3500 brushless
 +motor (10 turns, 3500kv, neodymium, high-amp) paired with the Velineon VXL-2 ESC. The single most important feature
 +in my eyes with this ESC is a continuous current rating of 200A, and a fwd/rew/brk peak of 320A! With this monster
 +of an esc running at 11.1V LiPo, this lands a __standard__ rating of 2.2kWatts to the motor! With the 3500-motor
 +running a good hot 650-1100 Watts, this allows for some serious power when coupled with a 5400mAh 20C LiPo ....
 +
 +{{ http://photos.defcon.no/2008-05-29-rustler-unpack/view/101_0096.JPG?450 }}
 +
 +The power and punch of the Velineon power train gives great flexibility in gearing for various performance profiles. Setting the truck up for drag-racing involves lowering and stiffening the suspension, adding on-road, foam or slick
 +tires, and setting the gearbox to 31 tooth pinion gear, 76 tooth spur gear. This sets your truck up for speeds
 +well in excess of 100 km/h. With this setup, I have radar-gunned my own truck at a speed of 97 km/h while
 +running the controls in one hand and the radar-gun in the other ...
 +
 +{{ http://photos.defcon.no/2010-05-08-rustler-body/view/P5080644.JPG?450 }}
 +
 +Keeping the 31T pinion, and swapping to a 83T or 86T spur gives you the bottom-punch you need for control and
 +performance on gravel/dirt off-road track. I run full-travel, medium stiffness on the shocks, Alias front tires
 +and gravel- or basher-tires on the rear for racing. The stock  shocks are a pain if you run your truck like I do,
 +read below for my frustration on this part...
 +
 +===== Upgrades =====
 +
 +This section contains upgrades and hop-ups that I have done from the stock setup.
 +
 +=== Rear Shock Tower ===
 +
 +  * ST Racing Concepts 6mm Heavy Duty Rear Shock Tower (Silver)
 +  * SPTST3638S $23.99
 +
 +The standard rear shock tower is not a Delrin component, but a composite nylon part. This is
 +one of the parts that take the most beating when running off-road, as this is the mounting point of
 +not only the shocks, but also the rear upper arms. Any sideway force from the rear tires lands
 +directly on the tower, and the anchor points are not really very solid.
 +
 +An aluminuim replacement allows the tower to handle more lateral force, and moves the most significant
 +rear weak point from a part that is quite some work to replace, out to the upper arms and the hub carrier.
 +
 +The rear tower I am using, from STRC, is not a single CNC or cast part, but two CNC milled parts, the
 +tower itself, and the mounting base. The mounting base is normally attached to the tower using standard
 +M3 screws and nuts. This IS a weak point in the construction. I do not reccomend this tower,
 +unless you have the skills to add a weld along the joint-lines between mount and tower. On the other hand,
 +no better alternative exists...
 +
 +=== Rear hub carrier ===
 +
 +  * ST Racing Concepts Oversized Rear Hub Carrier w/Bearings (Silver)
 +  * SPTST3652S $17.99
 +
 +To remove some slack, add precision and durability, and move the weak point by the wheels in to the
 +easily replaced rear upper arms, I have replaced the rear hub carriers with aluminium parts. Prior
 +to upgrading these, I only had a single failure of the nylon ones, but I attribute that to the
 +fact that I was running the nylon shock tower, allowing that to take the forces in place of the carriers.
 +
 +=== Caster Blocks ===
 +
 +  * ST Racing Concepts Caster Blocks (Silver) 
 +  * SPTST3632S $15.99
 +
 +The caster blocks take the bigges part of sideways beating up front, and are a pain to replace. So, after
 +only two failures of the casters, I upgraded to aluminium. Note that if you do not use CA-glue (threadlock)
 +on the bolts holding the turnbuckles, you'll have to tighten these back up after every hour run-time.
 +Luckily, this is as simple as tightening up two hex bolts.
 +
 +=== LiPo batteries ===
 +
 +  * Venom Power 3S Li-Poly 20C Battery Pack w/ Traxxas Connector (11.1V/5400mAh)
 +  * VNR1581T  $64.99
 +
 +===== Most frequent replacements =====
 +
 +This table lists components that have been replaced after normal wear and/or "normal crash", as in,
 +these are parts that are essential to keep in the "parts-box".
 +
 +^ Part             ^ Part number               ^ # of times replaced ^ Comment ^
 +| Spur Gear        | TRA4676(76T)/TRA4686(86T) | IIII | Normal wear |
 +| Shock bladder    | TRA1765                   | IIII | Damn shocks... |
 +| Rear shock tower | TRA3638                   | III  | Not replaced after upgrade.. |
 +| Caster blocks    | TRA3632                   | II   | Not replaced after upgrade.. |
 +| Rear hub carrier | TRA1952                   | I    | Not replaced after upgrade.. |
 +| Steering Blocks  | TRA3736                   | I    | |
 +| Rear Stub Axles  | TRA2753X                  | I    | |
 +| Half Shafts      | TRA1951                   | I    | |
 +
 +===== Shocks =====
 +
 One of the most annoying things I have experienced with my Rustler VXL, is the tendency of the stock shocks to pop open when running aggressively or hard on track. I have had a hard time figuring out what shocks can be run on the truggy, apart from the factory ones listed in the official parts list, so a summary of the shock specs and possible options is defenitely needed. So, here are the dimensions, and possible shocks as far as I've gathered: One of the most annoying things I have experienced with my Rustler VXL, is the tendency of the stock shocks to pop open when running aggressively or hard on track. I have had a hard time figuring out what shocks can be run on the truggy, apart from the factory ones listed in the official parts list, so a summary of the shock specs and possible options is defenitely needed. So, here are the dimensions, and possible shocks as far as I've gathered:
  
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 Oh, and both the parts list, and the product specs, claim that the Aluminium shock caps for the Big Bore shocks (part # 2662) also fit the plastic Ultra Shocks (the stock ones). This is utter bull, as the threads on the Big Bore caps is nowhere near the same as the threads on the Ultra Shock bodies. Oh, and both the parts list, and the product specs, claim that the Aluminium shock caps for the Big Bore shocks (part # 2662) also fit the plastic Ultra Shocks (the stock ones). This is utter bull, as the threads on the Big Bore caps is nowhere near the same as the threads on the Ultra Shock bodies.
 +
 +===== Links =====
 +
 +http://www.amainhobbies.com/
 +
 +http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_44_228/products_id/16688
 +
 +http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail.php?prod=FLMPEDEKIT&cat=10
 +
 +http://www.ultimatetoys.com.au/genuine-traxxas-spares-c-57.html
 +
 +http://www.ultimatetraxxas.com/
 +
 +
 +http://www.rcplanet.com/
 +
 +
 
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