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hobbies:rc:rustler [2010/01/07 14:15] fishy Layout, flesh... |
hobbies:rc:rustler [2010/05/25 11:05] (current) fishy Picture.. |
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| of an esc running at 11.1V LiPo, this lands a __standard__ rating of 2.2kWatts to the motor! With the 3500-motor | of an esc running at 11.1V LiPo, this lands a __standard__ rating of 2.2kWatts to the motor! With the 3500-motor | ||
| running a good hot 650-1100 Watts, this allows for some serious power when coupled with a 5400mAh 20C LiPo .... | running a good hot 650-1100 Watts, this allows for some serious power when coupled with a 5400mAh 20C LiPo .... | ||
| + | |||
| + | {{ http://photos.defcon.no/2008-05-29-rustler-unpack/view/101_0096.JPG?450 }} | ||
| The power and punch of the Velineon power train gives great flexibility in gearing for various performance profiles. Setting the truck up for drag-racing involves lowering and stiffening the suspension, adding on-road, foam or slick | The power and punch of the Velineon power train gives great flexibility in gearing for various performance profiles. Setting the truck up for drag-racing involves lowering and stiffening the suspension, adding on-road, foam or slick | ||
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| well in excess of 100 km/h. With this setup, I have radar-gunned my own truck at a speed of 97 km/h while | well in excess of 100 km/h. With this setup, I have radar-gunned my own truck at a speed of 97 km/h while | ||
| running the controls in one hand and the radar-gun in the other ... | running the controls in one hand and the radar-gun in the other ... | ||
| + | |||
| + | {{ http://photos.defcon.no/2010-05-08-rustler-body/view/P5080644.JPG?450 }} | ||
| Keeping the 31T pinion, and swapping to a 83T or 86T spur gives you the bottom-punch you need for control and | Keeping the 31T pinion, and swapping to a 83T or 86T spur gives you the bottom-punch you need for control and | ||
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| This section contains upgrades and hop-ups that I have done from the stock setup. | This section contains upgrades and hop-ups that I have done from the stock setup. | ||
| - | * ST Racing Concepts 6mm Heavy Duty Rear Shock Tower (Silver) (SPTST3638S) = $23.99 | + | === Rear Shock Tower === |
| - | * ST Racing Concepts Caster Blocks (Silver) (SPTST3632S) = $15.99 | + | |
| - | * ST Racing Concepts Oversized Rear Hub Carrier w/Bearings (Silver) (SPTST3652S) = $17.99 | + | * ST Racing Concepts 6mm Heavy Duty Rear Shock Tower (Silver) |
| - | * Venom Power 3S Li-Poly 20C Battery Pack w/ Traxxas Connector (11.1V/5400mAh) (VNR1581T) = $64.99 | + | * SPTST3638S $23.99 |
| + | |||
| + | The standard rear shock tower is not a Delrin component, but a composite nylon part. This is | ||
| + | one of the parts that take the most beating when running off-road, as this is the mounting point of | ||
| + | not only the shocks, but also the rear upper arms. Any sideway force from the rear tires lands | ||
| + | directly on the tower, and the anchor points are not really very solid. | ||
| + | |||
| + | An aluminuim replacement allows the tower to handle more lateral force, and moves the most significant | ||
| + | rear weak point from a part that is quite some work to replace, out to the upper arms and the hub carrier. | ||
| + | |||
| + | The rear tower I am using, from STRC, is not a single CNC or cast part, but two CNC milled parts, the | ||
| + | tower itself, and the mounting base. The mounting base is normally attached to the tower using standard | ||
| + | M3 screws and nuts. This IS a weak point in the construction. I do not reccomend this tower, | ||
| + | unless you have the skills to add a weld along the joint-lines between mount and tower. On the other hand, | ||
| + | no better alternative exists... | ||
| + | |||
| + | === Rear hub carrier === | ||
| + | |||
| + | * ST Racing Concepts Oversized Rear Hub Carrier w/Bearings (Silver) | ||
| + | * SPTST3652S $17.99 | ||
| + | |||
| + | To remove some slack, add precision and durability, and move the weak point by the wheels in to the | ||
| + | easily replaced rear upper arms, I have replaced the rear hub carriers with aluminium parts. Prior | ||
| + | to upgrading these, I only had a single failure of the nylon ones, but I attribute that to the | ||
| + | fact that I was running the nylon shock tower, allowing that to take the forces in place of the carriers. | ||
| + | |||
| + | === Caster Blocks === | ||
| + | |||
| + | * ST Racing Concepts Caster Blocks (Silver) | ||
| + | * SPTST3632S $15.99 | ||
| + | |||
| + | The caster blocks take the bigges part of sideways beating up front, and are a pain to replace. So, after | ||
| + | only two failures of the casters, I upgraded to aluminium. Note that if you do not use CA-glue (threadlock) | ||
| + | on the bolts holding the turnbuckles, you'll have to tighten these back up after every hour run-time. | ||
| + | Luckily, this is as simple as tightening up two hex bolts. | ||
| + | |||
| + | === LiPo batteries === | ||
| + | |||
| + | * Venom Power 3S Li-Poly 20C Battery Pack w/ Traxxas Connector (11.1V/5400mAh) | ||
| + | * VNR1581T $64.99 | ||
| ===== Most frequent replacements ===== | ===== Most frequent replacements ===== | ||