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hobbies:rc:x1x-cr [2010/05/25 11:10]
fishy Unboxing images 		hobbies:rc:x1x-cr [2010/05/31 01:13] (current)
fishy
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 The X1X-CR is a factory-made options-upgrade of Hong Nor X1-CR RTR. The X1-CR RTR is a "parts-downgrade" of what Hong Nor calls X1-CR Pro, this kit is available under a more familiar name as OFNA Jammin X1-CR. The kit I am based on is a "80% RTR" kit, meaning no engine or electronics are included.So the start of brushless conversion was as simple as removing only a handful of parts. The X1X-CR is a factory-made options-upgrade of Hong Nor X1-CR RTR. The X1-CR RTR is a "parts-downgrade" of what Hong Nor calls X1-CR Pro, this kit is available under a more familiar name as OFNA Jammin X1-CR. The kit I am based on is a "80% RTR" kit, meaning no engine or electronics are included.So the start of brushless conversion was as simple as removing only a handful of parts.
  
-{{http://photos.defcon.no/2010-01-16-x1x-cr-buggy/thumb/101_1078.JPG}}{{http://photos.defcon.no/2010-01-16-x1x-cr-buggy/thumb/101_1080.JPG}}{{http://photos.defcon.no/2010-01-16-x1x-cr-buggy/thumb/101_1128.JPG}}{{http://photos.defcon.no/2010-01-16-x1x-cr-buggy/thumb/101_1164.JPG}}{{http://photos.defcon.no/2010-01-16-x1x-cr-buggy/thumb/101_1174.JPG}}+{{http://photos.defcon.no/2010-01-16-x1x-cr-buggy/thumb/101_1078.JPG}}{{http://photos.defcon.no/2010-01-16-x1x-cr-buggy/thumb/101_1128.JPG}}{{http://photos.defcon.no/2010-01-16-x1x-cr-buggy/thumb/101_1164.JPG}}{{http://photos.defcon.no/2010-01-16-x1x-cr-buggy/thumb/101_1174.JPG}}
  
-[[http://photos.defcon.no/2010-01-16-x1x-cr-buggy/]]+  * http://photos.defcon.no/2010-01-16-x1x-cr-buggy/ 
 +  * http://photos.defcon.no/2010-05-10-x1x-cr-completion/
  
 ===== Brushless conversion ===== ===== Brushless conversion =====
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 The first mount that went into the car is the [[http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail.php?prod=RCMcrbuggymount|Ofna CR Buggy brushless motor mount]] from RC Monster. This motor mount replaces one of the center-diff posts, and is originally suitable for direct drive with a simple pinion gear. The solution to allow the use of a clutch bell was to grind out a new opening in the base plate for the spur gear, and flipping the center diff. The clutch nicely clears the casing on the differential, and the meshing of the pinion and spur is practically ideal. The first mount that went into the car is the [[http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail.php?prod=RCMcrbuggymount|Ofna CR Buggy brushless motor mount]] from RC Monster. This motor mount replaces one of the center-diff posts, and is originally suitable for direct drive with a simple pinion gear. The solution to allow the use of a clutch bell was to grind out a new opening in the base plate for the spur gear, and flipping the center diff. The clutch nicely clears the casing on the differential, and the meshing of the pinion and spur is practically ideal.
 +
 +{{ http://photos.defcon.no/2010-05-10-x1x-cr-completion/view/P5100669.JPG?450 }}
  
 ==== ESC, Electronic Speed Control ==== ==== ESC, Electronic Speed Control ====
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 I started looking at specs, thinking and planning in January. When April arrived and I still had not made a decision, I sat down, looked at the candidates with the goal of selecting and ordering. Considering the risk of going with HobbyWing, I started comparing amp-ratings, cutoff-voltages and tuning-features to prices. As the range prices were $35 apart on the best prices I could find, I decided the specs of the RX8 was absolutely worth it, and ordered. I started looking at specs, thinking and planning in January. When April arrived and I still had not made a decision, I sat down, looked at the candidates with the goal of selecting and ordering. Considering the risk of going with HobbyWing, I started comparing amp-ratings, cutoff-voltages and tuning-features to prices. As the range prices were $35 apart on the best prices I could find, I decided the specs of the RX8 was absolutely worth it, and ordered.
 +
 +{{ http://photos.defcon.no/2010-05-10-x1x-cr-completion/view/P5100690.JPG?450 }}
  
 A note about the RX8 in use. The heat-posts that double as connection posts are notoriously efficient temperature conductors, making the soldering of heavy-gauge wires a real task... Tekin has put out a YouTube video [[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5QktbPHdvQA|showing how]] to do this properly. When the guy in the video says "make sure you have a nice hot soldering iron" he is by no means joking. I ramped my 45W iron to 440 deg C and was still getting frustrated... I also ran my wires out to the side, I do believe it would have been easier to run them upright like Randy does in the video. A note about the RX8 in use. The heat-posts that double as connection posts are notoriously efficient temperature conductors, making the soldering of heavy-gauge wires a real task... Tekin has put out a YouTube video [[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5QktbPHdvQA|showing how]] to do this properly. When the guy in the video says "make sure you have a nice hot soldering iron" he is by no means joking. I ramped my 45W iron to 440 deg C and was still getting frustrated... I also ran my wires out to the side, I do believe it would have been easier to run them upright like Randy does in the video.
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 A common route for 1/8th conversions is to go with ~2-2500KV motors run with 4S LiPo batteries. I already have the [[hobbies:rc:rustler|Rustler]], my [[hobbies:quadrocopter:mikrokopter|Quadrocopters]] and various other battery-powered gadgets running on 11.1V 3S LiPo batteries (and Traxxas Highpower connectors), so I am starting out running the same on this car. This means I need to compensate for the 3.7V drop in voltage by increasing the KV rating. With the experience from the Velineon kit, I man starting out with a 60A 3200KV inrunner from HobbyCity. I also have a 78A 3000KV of the same series. All the 3C LiPo batteries in my stock, except one, will be able to provide continuous current above 80A. A common route for 1/8th conversions is to go with ~2-2500KV motors run with 4S LiPo batteries. I already have the [[hobbies:rc:rustler|Rustler]], my [[hobbies:quadrocopter:mikrokopter|Quadrocopters]] and various other battery-powered gadgets running on 11.1V 3S LiPo batteries (and Traxxas Highpower connectors), so I am starting out running the same on this car. This means I need to compensate for the 3.7V drop in voltage by increasing the KV rating. With the experience from the Velineon kit, I man starting out with a 60A 3200KV inrunner from HobbyCity. I also have a 78A 3000KV of the same series. All the 3C LiPo batteries in my stock, except one, will be able to provide continuous current above 80A.
 +
 +{{ http://photos.defcon.no/2010-05-10-x1x-cr-completion/view/P5100666.JPG?450 }}
 +{{ http://photos.defcon.no/2010-05-10-x1x-cr-completion/view/P5100697.JPG?450 }}
  
 ==== Battery mount ==== ==== Battery mount ====
  
 To prevent the battery from banging around int the car, to keep it on one place, and to balance weight a bit, the battery needs to be strapped down securely. To do this, I got a [[http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/138739|Tekno RC V3 Universal]] battery tray that I have mounted slightly raised from the chassis bottom so that it clears the side guard. On the tray, I have mounted lengths of velcro straps to secure the battery in all directions. To prevent the battery from banging around int the car, to keep it on one place, and to balance weight a bit, the battery needs to be strapped down securely. To do this, I got a [[http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/138739|Tekno RC V3 Universal]] battery tray that I have mounted slightly raised from the chassis bottom so that it clears the side guard. On the tray, I have mounted lengths of velcro straps to secure the battery in all directions.
 +{{ http://photos.defcon.no/2010-05-10-x1x-cr-completion/view/P5100680.JPG?450 }}
  
 ==== Brakes ==== ==== Brakes ====
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 The RC Monster motor mount has (in my eyes) a flaw that makes it impossible to use the break-assembly  on the side of the differential where the motor-mount replaces the original differential mount. Also, the position of the engine can does not allow the space for the brake discs on that side. For this reason, I only have braking on the side of the differential there the original differential post is used. This means I only have mechanical brakes on the front wheels. The RC Monster motor mount has (in my eyes) a flaw that makes it impossible to use the break-assembly  on the side of the differential where the motor-mount replaces the original differential mount. Also, the position of the engine can does not allow the space for the brake discs on that side. For this reason, I only have braking on the side of the differential there the original differential post is used. This means I only have mechanical brakes on the front wheels.
 +
 +{{ http://photos.defcon.no/2010-05-10-x1x-cr-completion/view/P5100700.JPG?450 }}
  
 My current mechanical setup of the servo for the brakes is really not optimal. The servo is mounted on a plate extending from the steering-servo mount, and ends up being slightly higher than a standard buggy body shell is in that spot, resulting in me having to cut an opening in the body shell at that point. I'm not at all happy with this. I suspect that the force required to get adequate braking is low enough to allow me to use a mini- or even micro servo. This will be experimented on, and I hope to get a better mounting arrangement for the brakes in time. My current mechanical setup of the servo for the brakes is really not optimal. The servo is mounted on a plate extending from the steering-servo mount, and ends up being slightly higher than a standard buggy body shell is in that spot, resulting in me having to cut an opening in the body shell at that point. I'm not at all happy with this. I suspect that the force required to get adequate braking is low enough to allow me to use a mini- or even micro servo. This will be experimented on, and I hope to get a better mounting arrangement for the brakes in time.
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 What DID end up as an "immediate replacement" however, was the 3200KV motor. On the absolute last run, the magnets/anchor came completely loose off the motor shaft/axle, making the mag's rotate in the motor without transferring any power to the shaft and drivetrain. Bummer. I have bolted on the 3000KV, and am hoping that it will hold together better than the 3200 one did. What DID end up as an "immediate replacement" however, was the 3200KV motor. On the absolute last run, the magnets/anchor came completely loose off the motor shaft/axle, making the mag's rotate in the motor without transferring any power to the shaft and drivetrain. Bummer. I have bolted on the 3000KV, and am hoping that it will hold together better than the 3200 one did.
- 
 ==== 2010-05-20 ==== ==== 2010-05-20 ====
  
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 Tires have been boiled and set to dry, and will be glued in time for Saturday. Tires have been boiled and set to dry, and will be glued in time for Saturday.
 +
 +==== 2010-05-22 ====
 +
 +Not a lot of driving, as I was track supervisor this day. That, and because of water. I managed to run the rig into a fairly deep pool of water, causing mud and water to enter the ESC, killing it off. Testing the ESC at the track indicated that it was completely dead, and I feared I had destroyed the most expensive part on the rig in under a week's time. 
 +
 +Back home, i pulled the ESC completely apart, and thoroughly cleaned out all signs of dirt, dust and corrosion using electronics cleaner, pressurized air, a copper brush, cotton sticks and patience. During this process I really built up respect for the craftsmanship and engineering done by Tekin. This ESC is solidly built! 
 +
 +The work of cleaning it paid off, and the ESC still lives.
 + 
 +==== 2010-05-25 ====
 +
 +I notice well that I am still getting to know this rig. This day, the servo coupling decided to be all places but where I wanted it to be. The fit-ring of the servo horn and the attachment at the servo both decided to wear down hard, and no matter how much tightening I did to the attachment screw, the servo horn slid out of place.
 +
 +Back home, I replaced the fit-ring and the screw, and got a proper solid fix. I also discovered that the servo-saver was completely solid, with no give at all! That explains the all-too-soon wear of teeth on the servo out-drive. So, the saver has been trimmed and adjusted, and now has medium slipping, witch should be just right.
 +
 +
 +Pictures!
 +
 +{{ http://www.rcklubben.no/forum/galleri/albums/userpics/10041/_DSC8726.jpg?450 }}
 +{{ http://www.rcklubben.no/forum/galleri/albums/userpics/10041/_DSC8713.jpg?450 }}
 +
 +==== 2010-05-27 ====
 +
 +Replacements time. I smacked into a heap of pallets, completely busting the differential housing and a turnbuckle of the front left upper arm. I also spopped off one of those blasted C-clips in the process.
 +
 +On the bright side, the adjustments to the servo-saver seems to have been spot on, with not too much give, but actually a smoother, more responsive feel. Seems like that overworked HS-325HB gets a better chance of actually moving the fronts when there is a little give.
  
 ===== Most frequent replacements ===== ===== Most frequent replacements =====
 
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hobbies/rc/x1x-cr.1274778637.txt.gz · Last modified: 2010/05/25 11:10 by fishy