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hobbies:rc:x1x-cr [2010/05/25 11:15] fishy |
hobbies:rc:x1x-cr [2010/05/31 01:13] (current) fishy |
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{{http://photos.defcon.no/2010-01-16-x1x-cr-buggy/thumb/101_1078.JPG}}{{http://photos.defcon.no/2010-01-16-x1x-cr-buggy/thumb/101_1128.JPG}}{{http://photos.defcon.no/2010-01-16-x1x-cr-buggy/thumb/101_1164.JPG}}{{http://photos.defcon.no/2010-01-16-x1x-cr-buggy/thumb/101_1174.JPG}} | {{http://photos.defcon.no/2010-01-16-x1x-cr-buggy/thumb/101_1078.JPG}}{{http://photos.defcon.no/2010-01-16-x1x-cr-buggy/thumb/101_1128.JPG}}{{http://photos.defcon.no/2010-01-16-x1x-cr-buggy/thumb/101_1164.JPG}}{{http://photos.defcon.no/2010-01-16-x1x-cr-buggy/thumb/101_1174.JPG}} | ||
- | [[http://photos.defcon.no/2010-01-16-x1x-cr-buggy/]] | + | * http://photos.defcon.no/2010-01-16-x1x-cr-buggy/ |
+ | * http://photos.defcon.no/2010-05-10-x1x-cr-completion/ | ||
===== Brushless conversion ===== | ===== Brushless conversion ===== | ||
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A common route for 1/8th conversions is to go with ~2-2500KV motors run with 4S LiPo batteries. I already have the [[hobbies:rc:rustler|Rustler]], my [[hobbies:quadrocopter:mikrokopter|Quadrocopters]] and various other battery-powered gadgets running on 11.1V 3S LiPo batteries (and Traxxas Highpower connectors), so I am starting out running the same on this car. This means I need to compensate for the 3.7V drop in voltage by increasing the KV rating. With the experience from the Velineon kit, I man starting out with a 60A 3200KV inrunner from HobbyCity. I also have a 78A 3000KV of the same series. All the 3C LiPo batteries in my stock, except one, will be able to provide continuous current above 80A. | A common route for 1/8th conversions is to go with ~2-2500KV motors run with 4S LiPo batteries. I already have the [[hobbies:rc:rustler|Rustler]], my [[hobbies:quadrocopter:mikrokopter|Quadrocopters]] and various other battery-powered gadgets running on 11.1V 3S LiPo batteries (and Traxxas Highpower connectors), so I am starting out running the same on this car. This means I need to compensate for the 3.7V drop in voltage by increasing the KV rating. With the experience from the Velineon kit, I man starting out with a 60A 3200KV inrunner from HobbyCity. I also have a 78A 3000KV of the same series. All the 3C LiPo batteries in my stock, except one, will be able to provide continuous current above 80A. | ||
- | {{ http://photos.defcon.no/2010-05-10-x1x-cr-completion/P5100666.JPG?450 }} | + | {{ http://photos.defcon.no/2010-05-10-x1x-cr-completion/view/P5100666.JPG?450 }} |
- | {{ http://photos.defcon.no/2010-05-10-x1x-cr-completion/P5100697.JPG?450 }} | + | {{ http://photos.defcon.no/2010-05-10-x1x-cr-completion/view/P5100697.JPG?450 }} |
==== Battery mount ==== | ==== Battery mount ==== | ||
To prevent the battery from banging around int the car, to keep it on one place, and to balance weight a bit, the battery needs to be strapped down securely. To do this, I got a [[http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/138739|Tekno RC V3 Universal]] battery tray that I have mounted slightly raised from the chassis bottom so that it clears the side guard. On the tray, I have mounted lengths of velcro straps to secure the battery in all directions. | To prevent the battery from banging around int the car, to keep it on one place, and to balance weight a bit, the battery needs to be strapped down securely. To do this, I got a [[http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/138739|Tekno RC V3 Universal]] battery tray that I have mounted slightly raised from the chassis bottom so that it clears the side guard. On the tray, I have mounted lengths of velcro straps to secure the battery in all directions. | ||
+ | {{ http://photos.defcon.no/2010-05-10-x1x-cr-completion/view/P5100680.JPG?450 }} | ||
==== Brakes ==== | ==== Brakes ==== | ||
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The RC Monster motor mount has (in my eyes) a flaw that makes it impossible to use the break-assembly on the side of the differential where the motor-mount replaces the original differential mount. Also, the position of the engine can does not allow the space for the brake discs on that side. For this reason, I only have braking on the side of the differential there the original differential post is used. This means I only have mechanical brakes on the front wheels. | The RC Monster motor mount has (in my eyes) a flaw that makes it impossible to use the break-assembly on the side of the differential where the motor-mount replaces the original differential mount. Also, the position of the engine can does not allow the space for the brake discs on that side. For this reason, I only have braking on the side of the differential there the original differential post is used. This means I only have mechanical brakes on the front wheels. | ||
+ | |||
+ | {{ http://photos.defcon.no/2010-05-10-x1x-cr-completion/view/P5100700.JPG?450 }} | ||
My current mechanical setup of the servo for the brakes is really not optimal. The servo is mounted on a plate extending from the steering-servo mount, and ends up being slightly higher than a standard buggy body shell is in that spot, resulting in me having to cut an opening in the body shell at that point. I'm not at all happy with this. I suspect that the force required to get adequate braking is low enough to allow me to use a mini- or even micro servo. This will be experimented on, and I hope to get a better mounting arrangement for the brakes in time. | My current mechanical setup of the servo for the brakes is really not optimal. The servo is mounted on a plate extending from the steering-servo mount, and ends up being slightly higher than a standard buggy body shell is in that spot, resulting in me having to cut an opening in the body shell at that point. I'm not at all happy with this. I suspect that the force required to get adequate braking is low enough to allow me to use a mini- or even micro servo. This will be experimented on, and I hope to get a better mounting arrangement for the brakes in time. | ||
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What DID end up as an "immediate replacement" however, was the 3200KV motor. On the absolute last run, the magnets/anchor came completely loose off the motor shaft/axle, making the mag's rotate in the motor without transferring any power to the shaft and drivetrain. Bummer. I have bolted on the 3000KV, and am hoping that it will hold together better than the 3200 one did. | What DID end up as an "immediate replacement" however, was the 3200KV motor. On the absolute last run, the magnets/anchor came completely loose off the motor shaft/axle, making the mag's rotate in the motor without transferring any power to the shaft and drivetrain. Bummer. I have bolted on the 3000KV, and am hoping that it will hold together better than the 3200 one did. | ||
- | |||
==== 2010-05-20 ==== | ==== 2010-05-20 ==== | ||
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Tires have been boiled and set to dry, and will be glued in time for Saturday. | Tires have been boiled and set to dry, and will be glued in time for Saturday. | ||
+ | |||
+ | ==== 2010-05-22 ==== | ||
+ | |||
+ | Not a lot of driving, as I was track supervisor this day. That, and because of water. I managed to run the rig into a fairly deep pool of water, causing mud and water to enter the ESC, killing it off. Testing the ESC at the track indicated that it was completely dead, and I feared I had destroyed the most expensive part on the rig in under a week's time. | ||
+ | |||
+ | Back home, i pulled the ESC completely apart, and thoroughly cleaned out all signs of dirt, dust and corrosion using electronics cleaner, pressurized air, a copper brush, cotton sticks and patience. During this process I really built up respect for the craftsmanship and engineering done by Tekin. This ESC is solidly built! | ||
+ | |||
+ | The work of cleaning it paid off, and the ESC still lives. | ||
+ | |||
+ | ==== 2010-05-25 ==== | ||
+ | |||
+ | I notice well that I am still getting to know this rig. This day, the servo coupling decided to be all places but where I wanted it to be. The fit-ring of the servo horn and the attachment at the servo both decided to wear down hard, and no matter how much tightening I did to the attachment screw, the servo horn slid out of place. | ||
+ | |||
+ | Back home, I replaced the fit-ring and the screw, and got a proper solid fix. I also discovered that the servo-saver was completely solid, with no give at all! That explains the all-too-soon wear of teeth on the servo out-drive. So, the saver has been trimmed and adjusted, and now has medium slipping, witch should be just right. | ||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | Pictures! | ||
+ | |||
+ | {{ http://www.rcklubben.no/forum/galleri/albums/userpics/10041/_DSC8726.jpg?450 }} | ||
+ | {{ http://www.rcklubben.no/forum/galleri/albums/userpics/10041/_DSC8713.jpg?450 }} | ||
+ | |||
+ | ==== 2010-05-27 ==== | ||
+ | |||
+ | Replacements time. I smacked into a heap of pallets, completely busting the differential housing and a turnbuckle of the front left upper arm. I also spopped off one of those blasted C-clips in the process. | ||
+ | |||
+ | On the bright side, the adjustments to the servo-saver seems to have been spot on, with not too much give, but actually a smoother, more responsive feel. Seems like that overworked HS-325HB gets a better chance of actually moving the fronts when there is a little give. | ||
===== Most frequent replacements ===== | ===== Most frequent replacements ===== |